Oct 112011
 

Which of these four different grey levers is the safety lever on this FN57 pistol? And is it currently set to safe or to fire? (Answer at end of article)

One of the concepts popularized by the revolutionary Glock 17 pistol when it was first released in 1982 was that the pistol had no separate dedicated safety lever.  Perhaps because of this, Glock made – and still does make – a big thing of its three different safety devices built into its pistols, which basically mean that if the trigger isn’t pulled, the gun won’t shoot.

Not quite so proudly stated is that if the trigger is pulled – whether by your trigger or possibly by virtue of being caught on something that pushes against the trigger, then the gun will shoot without further ado.

While this was a new concept for a mass-market full-sized semi-auto pistol, it was far from a unique or novel concept overall.  Most revolvers do not have a safety lever on them, and plenty of sub-compact type semi-auto pistols are offered without safety levers too.

But isn’t a safety lever, well – as its name implies?  A safety feature, and something that should be expected and used?

Some people have embraced the concept of a gun without a separate safety lever.  Others have shunned it.  Which is the more correct attitude?

Here are some arguments sometimes put forward both pro and con.  I’ll list the arguments first, then discuss them second.

Advantages of No Gun Safety

  • A gun without a safety is easier to learn.  You don’t have to all the time be fussing about if the safety is on or off.
  • A gun without a safety is quicker to get into action.  It is one less step to perform under duress – if all you have to go is grab your gun, point it, and start pulling the trigger, that is a lot easier than grabbing, pointing, checking and changing the safety’s state as needed, then pulling.
  • A gun without a safety is simpler and has one less thing to go wrong.  What if the safety gets stuck or in some other way breaks and prevents the gun from firing at a critical time?
  • A gun without a safety is a gun you are forced to treat with greater care and respect, because you know that the only thing preventing the gun from discharging is your careful handling.
  • A gun does not need  a safety – it is designed to shoot rather than to not shoot, and the biggest/bestest safety is the behavior of the person handling the gun.

Advantages of a Gun with a Safety

  • A gun with a safety has one more layer of protection.  Sure, in perfect theory, safeties would never be required, but in the imperfect real world, mistakes and accidents can and do occur, and an additional separate safety lever might prevent an accidental discharge from occurring.
  • If your gun is taken from you, and if it has its safety on, you might have a valuable extra few seconds of time to save yourself before your gun is used against you.
  • A safety makes it possible to carry, eg, a 1911 type pistol ‘cocked and locked’.
  • A gun is a lethal weapon.  You can’t take back a bullet once you’ve fired it.  Adding a safety is not just common sense and prudent, it is as essential as are having seat belts and air bags in a car.

So Are Safeties Good?

Some of these reasons, both for and against safeties, are more compelling than others.  We’ve stated them here without comment, so you can think about them yourself, and decide what to do that best suits your own situation.

But if you’d like some comments and thoughts, please do continue reading.

Talking first about the advantages of a gun without an additional separate safety lever, we do agree and accept that such a gun may be very slightly quicker to get into action, and maybe 0.001% more reliable than a well designed gun complete with a safety lever function.

As for guns being more dangerous or more safe, with or without a safety (and notice the curious but valid suggestion that a gun with no safety could be safer because people know they always must treat it as dangerous, whereas if a gun has a safety, sooner or later a person will rely on the safety and do something stupid with the gun, and the safety will fail to prevent a tragedy from following) the difference in safety is minimal and much less a factor than the degree of safety as a result of even some very basic gun handling training.

The training point is possibly the most valid.  As a trainer, one of the common problems I note with new students is they’ll many times get muddled and flick the safety on when it should be off, or vice versa, resulting in failed attempts to fire the pistol (due to the safety being incorrectly active) and possibly unsafe weapons (due to the safety not being set at a time when the gun’s owner thought it to be safed).

And – I’m embarrassed to say this – if I’m handed a weapon I’m unfamiliar with, I don’t necessarily instantly recognize the safety and understand if it is in a safe or ready position.  Some weapons have very counter-intuitive safeties and markings, and some weapons have safeties in very different positions to those on other weapons.

This isn’t such a big problem if you own and train consistently with only ever one style of weapon so you become familiar and skilled at setting its safety on and off.  But if you’re hoping to get proficiency in several different weapons, some with safeties at the rear, some with safeties in the middle, and some with safeties at the front of the weapon, you know that for sure, when you suddenly find yourself in a high stress situation and needing to quickly work your gun, there’s every good chance you’re going to fumble the ‘set safety off’ part of your getting ready to shoot steps.

But now let’s flip that around and consider it from an opposite perspective.

Perhaps the most convincing argument we’ve encountered for choosing a weapon with a safety is that it may slow down the time it takes for someone who has taken your gun from you to get it running.  This of course assumes that your weapon was taken from you with the safety set on – if the safety is already set off, then you’ll have no benefit at all, because most bad guys, after getting your gun from you, will point it at you and potentially pull the trigger without pausing to check anything.  Only after the trigger pull has failed to result in a shot being fired will they then pause to look at the gun and try to puzzle out what the problem is (think of the different scenarios – no round in chamber, out of ammo entirely, a jam of some sort, or the safety on).

Some studies have come up with what they claim to be the average number of seconds it takes an unskilled person to fire a pistol with the safety on.  I hesitate to cite those studies or their findings, because my sense is that the ‘average’ does not reflect a common likely to be experienced number of seconds that you can count on or anticipate.  If you’ve a standard 1911 type pistol, for example, and if the bad guy has a passing familiarity with 1911 pistols, having the safety on might buy you a second or less.  But if you’ve got one of the fancy new guns out there that seem to have more knobs and dials and switches on them than is reasonable, it could take the person a surprising amount of time and experimentation to end up getting the gun running.  Meanwhile, talking about running, that is probably what you’re doing, as fast as you can!

But for this to buy you any time, you’ve got to be very certain to always keep the safety on until you’re ready to fire.  This is good tactics, of course, but our sense is that many people, if confronting an intruder or potential intruder, will urgently take the safety off at the start of their weapon handling drills, rather than as the third to last step (followed by ‘finger on trigger’ and ‘squeeeeze’).  This is also true of after-action drills – the minute you’ve decided not to shoot, or to stop shooting, you need to go in reverse – ‘finger away from trigger’ and then ‘safety on’.

Phew – if you read through the last some paragraphs, perhaps they can be summarized as ‘a safety can be a useful enhancement to any gun, but if you choose to get a gun with a safety, you’ll need a great deal more training in order to be able to use it well’.

So?  The Bottom Line?

Safety or not?  What should you do?

There’s no absolutely universally right answer to this question.  Feel free to make your own choice either which way.  On balance, we slightly prefer guns without safeties.  But you know yourself, your competencies, and the scenarios in which you may be carrying and using your gun.

If there’s a danger of having the gun taken from you, then having an obscured safety lever is a great thing.  But if you want a dead simple ‘point and shoot’ gun that you’re not going to have to train to a higher level of competency with in order to be able to use it in an extreme situation, getting a gun without the addition of an external free-standing safety will make your life easier, and might also shave anything from 0.1 seconds and up off the time it takes to get the gun running in an emergency.

0.1 seconds?  It doesn’t sound like much, does it!  But an attacker running at you at full speed will cover a yard or more in that single one tenth of a second, and that could mean all the difference between a stand-off self-defense act on your part, and an ugly and unpredictable wrestling match where the first thing that goes away is your control of your gun.

A tenth of a second can literally mean the difference between life and death.  So maybe that ‘safety’ catch isn’t quite as safe as you thought.

Why Don’t Revolvers Have Safeties?

Most revolvers have no safeties on them.  Smith & Wesson, for a while, made their revolvers with a key lock, but this is not the same thing as a safety.  A safety is something that is designed to be conveniently activated and de-activated with the flip of a finger; a key lock is, well, clearly something very different.

The main reason that revolvers are usually found without a safety is due to how the trigger works.  A semi-auto pistol that is cocked can be fired by a very small trigger movement – perhaps as little as a tenth of an inch or so, and with very little pressure – perhaps only 2 or 3 pounds of pull on the trigger.  As such, a semi-auto is thought by some people to be more susceptible to being accidentally fired by having things bump the trigger – for example, a quite common scenario is some clothing catching on the gun when it is being reinserted into a belt holster, and tightening around the trigger, potentially causing the gun to fire.

A revolver on the other hand is normally carried in its ‘double action’ mode – ie, with the hammer resting forward rather than cocked back.  The trigger has to be pulled a long way backwards – maybe as much even as an inch of movement, and a great deal more pressure has to be applied to the trigger – usually appreciably more than ten pounds of trigger pull.

This means that both because of the long distance the trigger has to be pulled, and the strong pressure needed to be applied, it is much less likely for a revolver to be accidentally fired.

Hence – no additional safety.

Postscript :  Disabling – or Adding – a Safety

If you have a strong preference for having – or not having – a safety, you can of course disable an existing safety (a bit of Locktite or instant glue can ensure it stays in its unsafe/ready to fire setting), and you can also have gunsmiths add safeties to guns that lack them, out of the box.

We really don’t like the thought of disabling a safety.  It just feels like a bad thing that might come back to embarrass you – you can imagine a prosecutor thundering to the jury – ‘And the defendant was so reckless and so keen to shoot, that he even disabled the safety mechanism on the gun.  If only he had paused that extra second to take off the safety, he might have had time to reconsider his actions, and observed that the victim he shot had already surrendered to him, and posed no threat at all……’.  He might go on ‘Who is this defendant, that he knows more about gun design than the manufacturer?  Disabling the safety is as reckless as an AIDS infected person having unprotected casual sex….’.

You get the idea.

On the other hand, it is hard to criticize a person for adding an extra safety to a gun, making it more safe and harder to fire.  But when are you going to stop?  Adding one safety?  Two?  Five?  Ten?  If you’re so uncomfortable with a gun that doesn’t have a safety – particularly a gun like the Glock which is omnipresent and used by police departments and other law enforcement departments, as is, and as such is above criticism for being unduly dangerous – maybe you’re better advised to get a different model gun to start with.

Furthermore, while factory designed and installed safeties tend to be reliable, after-market add-on safeties are an unknown quantity that add another degree of complexity to your gun and another chance for something to go wrong.

We urge you never to modify a gun unless it is absolutely essential, because any modification you do can be twisted and turned and used against you in a court of law.

We have some guns we like, but with safeties we don’t like – safeties that are difficult to reach and difficult to move (for example, on a Browning Hi-Power, a gun which often has a very stiff safety lever).  We said before that switching a safety off (or on) might take as little as 0.1 seconds.  But some safeties will take you more like 0.5 seconds or even longer, and if even 0.1 seconds can change the outcome of an encounter, you can guess at how game-changing a 1.0 second extra time factor can be.

We simply leave the safety off, permanently, in such cases, and have downgraded such guns so they are no longer our normal carry/work guns.

Answer to the Question in the Picture Caption

We asked which of the four grey controls on the FN Herstal 57 pistol was the safety.  You probably managed to work out the answer yourself, but in the dark, under stress, if you were a bad guy and the gun didn’t shoot, what would you do first?  A challenge, for sure.

The four controls are :

  1. Forward most is the takedown lever for field stripping
  2. The middle lever is – (did you guess correctly?) – the safety.  Currently it is in the up or safe position.  If rotated anti-clockwise/down, it would move to the ready position, and expose a small red dot to indicate its status.
  3. The rear lever is the slide lock.
  4. The level at the rear of the trigger guard is the magazine release.

Both the safety and the magazine release are duplicated on the other side of the gun too, giving the bad guy a total of six controls to worry about.

And the FN 57 has one other feature as well – a feature we’ll write about separately.  A magazine safety.  If the magazine is missing, or even if it is just not fully seated, an interlock lever prevents the gun from firing.  So if the bad guy is succeeding in grabbing your FN 57, hit the magazine release, and even if there’s already a round in the chamber and the gun cocked, ready to fire, it will be fully inert until a magazine is correctly inserted and fully seated.

Sep 212011
 
Speed Strip and Speedloader alongside Ruger LCR

A Bianchi Speed Strip and a speedloader alongside a Ruger LCR

One thing is for sure.  If you have a revolver, you’re going to be doing a lot of reloading.

On the range, it doesn’t matter so much, and indeed, depending on the practice drills you are doing, it is generally a good thing to have a break after every half-dozen shots or so anyway.  Regular breaks, whether for reloading, or checking your target, or whatever else, help to keep you unstressed and fresh.

But if you find yourself in a self-defense situation, it is a very different story.  We’re not going to re-debate the merits of revolvers vs semi-autos for self-defense purposes in this article; we’ll start off with the assumption that – for whatever reason – you’re carrying a five or six shot revolver.

If you’re facing a single adversary, and if you’re lucky, those five or six shots will hopefully be sufficient to stop the threat posed by the adversary.  If you’re facing multiple attackers, then you’re almost certainly going to reload at some point in the proceedings – either a combat/emergency reload due to having emptied your gun and needing to reload, or a tactical reload where in a short pause in the action, you top it up, replacing perhaps only spent cartridges with fresh ones.

Before we talk about reloading, one more point about the need to reload.  Say you’ve just successfully saved yourself from a violent attack from a single offender.  What is the first, second, and third thing you should do?

As soon as the attacker appears to have stopped pressing his attack on you, you should move to one side or the other (ideally away from wherever it is he is either now lying or running away towards) and do a quick scan about your surroundings.  Are there any other bad guys nearby?  Or, for that matter, any good guys – any witnesses to what had just happened?

Secondly, having confirmed there are no more attackers about to spring out at you, and having called out to witnesses, you now need to focus on your former attacker.  Is he truly down (or did he truly run away), or is he about to come right back at you a second time?  This rarely happens – most people, when being shot at by a determined defender, will end the fight and run away – only if it is a ‘grudge fight’ or contract assassination will the other guy keep shooting.  But if/when it does happen, you don’t want to be caught out!  Remember – ‘It ain’t over till its over’.

Now for the third thing.  You need to do a ‘tactical reload’ of your revolver (or semi-auto for that matter, too).  Whether you fired one, five or fifteen rounds, your gun is no longer at full capacity.  Reload your gun – swap magazines if a semi-auto; eject spent shells and replace them with new shells if a revolver.

The Four Revolver Reloading Options

There are many different approaches to reloading a revolver, and in presenting four to you, we’ve ignored some which are either not useful for ‘normal people’ or which are so similar to the four approaches we do list as to not be worthy of separate mention.

So, now for the four ways to reload your revolver.

1.  Loose rounds – perhaps from belt loops or a pouch

The first option is the oldest, simplest, but also usually least satisfactory way of reloading.  You have a collection of loose rounds – maybe in belt loops, maybe in a dump pouch or other carry pouch.  You eject your spent rounds and replace them, one by one, with fresh rounds.

On the face of it, this is an easy, simple and straightforward process, albeit very slow.  But in a combat situation, where you have an adrenalin rush and a loss of micro-motor skills (to put it bluntly, you’re shaking like a leaf), the fiddly business of getting each individual shell, holding it just right, and then fitting it into an empty chamber is going to be difficult and take you more time than you expect.

On the other hand, if you’re doing a tactical reload where you only need to ‘top up’ your gun by replacing two or three spent shells with fresh ones, it is a more acceptable approach, and all the more so because a tactical reload isn’t quite as time critical – you don’t have a bad guy rushing at you, closing the distance at a rate of 30 feet every second.

2.  Speedloaders

Although the perception of speed loaders is that they are a modern invention, this is not entirely correct.  Speed loaders can be seen dating back to the 1880’s when Colt advertised a type of speedloader made out of wood.  The device, which looked quite similar to modern speedloaders, had a central removable wooden cone.  While in place it held all six rounds in their slots; when removed, it allowed the rounds to fall freely into the cylinder.

Perhaps the predecessor to the speed loader concept was very early revolvers with reasonably readily removable/exchangeable cylinders.  Rather than simply swapping over a set of rounds, you could – in theory – swap over a complete cylinder for a new cylinder, preloaded with another six rounds.

But this was a design approach that didn’t last for long and probably was never a prime purpose of allowing for replaceable cylinders in the first place.  It required bulky, heavy, and expensive cylinders rather than light and cheap speedloaders, and was probably a hold-over from prior to the invention of cartridges.  Reloading an earlier ‘cap and ball’ type revolver was a slow and complex process, and so some revolvers (and some shooters) would carry preloaded spare cylinders to change over as needed in a fight.

Early revolver design with a fixed cylinder and a gate on the side at the rear of the cylinder for extracting/reloading cartridges one at a time obviously couldn’t be converted to allow for multiple rounds to be removed or replaced simultaneously, but these early designs were replaced with revolvers that either hinged open with a ‘top break’ so the revolver ‘breaks’ into an inverted V, exposing the rear of the cylinder to allow access to all rounds, or revolvers where the cylinder swung out to the side on a crane arm, again exposing the rear of the cylinder to access all rounds.  The latter approach is close to universally adopted in all modern revolvers.

Modern speedloaders started to become more common from the 1970s, and these days their use is widespread to the point that few people consider other options beyond speedloaders when thinking how to best/quickest reload their revolver.

It is probably true that for a ‘combat reload’ – a situation where you have fired all the rounds in your revolver and need to urgently reload to continue the fight – a speedloader can be the quickest way to transition from empty to full again.  But for a tactical reload, the problem is that the speedloader is an ‘all or nothing’ device – you first have to eject all the rounds in the cylinder, whether they have been fired or not, before then dumping a speedloader’s new set of rounds in.

This is not a huge problem if you have unlimited ammunition, and/or spare time to carefully sort through the mix of spent and unfired rounds.  But in any sort of real-world situation, you probably do not have unlimited ammunition with you, and you almost certainly do not have the time to leisurely manage your ammo in brief pauses in the gun fight you’re trying to win.

With only five or six rounds in a revolver to start with, you’ll be doing tactical reloads any time it is safe to do so in an encounter, and so you need a way to conserve your ammunition.  To put that in context, most people get nervous, with a semi-auto, when the magazine gets down to about one-third full (or, if you prefer, two-thirds empty) – and one-third full in a modern semi-auto magazine is typically 5 or 6 rounds, the same as a revolver when it is full!

3.  Moon clips

Another variation on the speedloader concept is the ‘moon clip’ – a metal clip commonly holding three rounds together in a semi-circular or ‘moon’ shape.  Other moon clips exist that hold two or six rounds.  Moon clips date back to around the turn of the 19th/20th century (eg for the Webley-Fosbery automatic revolver – which also could use a Prideaux speedloader).

Unlike a speedloader, the moon clip stays attached to the cartridges, meaning that when you reload, you have to remove a full clip’s worth of cartridges, whether or not they have all been fired.  This could be a problem if you’re short of ammo, and wanting to do a tactical reload.  Say you’ve fired two rounds – one from each of two moon clips.  You have to remove both moon clips and replace them with full ones, wasting four of your six rounds.

Moon clips have also been used to modify rimless ammunition designed for semi-autos to allow them to be fired through revolvers, which are generally designed to require a rim on each round to hold it in position in the cylinder (and also for the extractor to eject as well).

Reloading with a full moon clip (ie holding six rounds) is comparable in speed to reloading with a speed loader.  Possibly the moon clip is a slightly more fragile way of carrying the rounds, but if you have a protective pouch, this should not be an issue.  On the other hand, reloading with two half-moon clips is clearly slower than with a single speedloader and so is a less desirable option (assuming you have options).

4.  Bianchi Speed Strips

Now for a more truly new approach to keeping your revolver running.  The Bianchi Speed Strip (and now also sold by a competitor as the Tuff Quickstrip).  You can see an example of one in the photo at the top.

This is a flexible plastic strip with space for six cartridges.  When using it to reload your revolver, you flex the strip and use it to place two cartridges at a time into two chambers of the cylinder and squeeze them out of the flexible plastic, then turn the cylinder, shift your grip on the strip, and repeat the process again (and again to do all six).

Yes, it sounds complicated, and yes, it is a bit slower than using a speedloader, where one simple action drops a full cylinder’s worth of cartridges into the revolver.  But it can be surprisingly quick, and only a little slower than a speedloader.

Where the Speed Strip really comes into its own however is in doing tactical reloads.  You simply eject the fired rounds, and then replace them, two (or even one) at a time from a Speed Strip.  No rounds are wasted.

Here’s a great Youtube video with Massad Ayoob demonstrating how to use a Speed Strip.  Note that he recommends only carrying five rather than six rounds in a Speed Strip to allow for easier handling of the Strip.

There is another advantage to Speed Strips too.  They are easier to carry in your pocket.  A speedloader is more bulky to have in your pocket if you are carrying concealed, whereas a Speed Strip is flat.

And, lastly, one more small benefit of Speed Strips.  A single Speed Strip will hold either .38 SPL or .357 Mag rounds, and can be used with any revolver.  Speedloaders (while also interchangeably accepting the two calibers) have to be matched to specific pistols, due to the different diameter of the cylinder and number of rounds held in the cylinder.

How Long Should it Take to Reload a Revolver

Okay, so that is a question a bit like asking ‘how high is up’.  It takes however long it takes, of course.  But to give you a feeling for what a reasonably proficient person should train for, Front Sight in its proficiency tests requires its students to do either a tactical or combat reload in no more than seven seconds.

Seven seconds sounds like a long time to be out of a gunfight.  In that period of time, a person can run 50 – 70 yards, and if they have a semi-auto, they can fire a full magazine’s worth of bullets at you, reload, and be more or less finished emptying a second (high-capacity) magazine’s worth of ammo in your direction.  Most violent encounters only last a few seconds.

Now it is possible to reload a revolver in much less than seven seconds, but it will take you a huge amount of training to be able to do so, and whether or not you’ll be able to perform as well in the stress of a combat situation is dubious at best.  Here’s a video showing one of the all time greats of revolver shooting, Jerry Miculek, who first shoots all six rounds in his revolver, then reloads, then shoots the reloaded six rounds – all in 2.99 seconds!  That is staggeringly fast and is the world record.  Few people could hope to fire twelve rounds out of a semi-auto – with no reloading in the middle – in the same time frame.

More realistically, you should consider the Front Sight seven second target as an appropriate first goal to achieve.  Here’s a good step by step explanation of how to use a speedloader efficiently in reloading.

To put the seven seconds into context, Front Sight allow 4.5 seconds for a tactical reload of a semi-auto, and when the pressure is on, 2.4 seconds for an emergency/combat reload.  With some practice, you should be able to do it in less than 2 seconds, and even in a high stress situation, the relatively simple movements are such that your reloading time shouldn’t slow down too much.

There’s another subtle issue.  With a revolver, your gun is out of the fight from the instant you decide to start a reload (whether tactical or combat) until the final point where you’ve closed the cylinder and have it in a firing grip.  With a semi-auto, in some cases you can do a complete reload and have your gun still able to shoot at all times.  If you’re doing a semi-combat reload – a situation where you think you’re getting dangerously low on rounds and there’s a brief pause in the encounter but still a high probability of threats reappearing – you can do a combat style reload where you don’t release your partially full magazine until you have a replacement magazine in your hand, indexed, and ready to shove in.  Here’s the good thing – at all times, there is still a round chambered and ready to shoot if things suddenly go high-intensity again.

Note that some semi-autos have a ‘magazine interlock/safety’ – they won’t fire if there isn’t a magazine in the gun.  This can be a life-saver if you’re struggling to stop a bad guy from taking your gun from you – simply pop the magazine out and let him have it, there’s nothing he can do with it.  While he’s trying to figure out how come the gun won’t shoot, you can be doing whatever you need to do in response.  But this ‘safety’ feature can also be a major embarrassment if for some reason you need to use the round in the chamber while there’s no magazine in the gun.  Browning Hi-Powers and FN Five-Seven pistols are two examples of such guns.

One more subtle issue.  With some practice, you may be aware when your semi-auto is empty and needs to be reloaded, because the slide has locked back.  In a high stress encounter, there’s no way you’ll be accurately counting your rounds fired, but you may dimly perceive that the gun felt differently after the last shot, or looks differently from your perspective behind the sights.  So you might have this tactile or visual clue telling you to reload (although so too will any bad guys close to you also see the slide locked back).

A revolver gives you no such clue.  You’ll again have no realistic idea of how many rounds you’ve fired, and your first indication of an empty gun will be when you pull the trigger and get a click rather than a bang (if we had a dollar for every time a person then pulls the trigger a second time, getting a second click, before reluctantly accepting their gun is already empty and needs reloading, we’d be relaxing on a tropical beach with an umbrella’d fruity drink rather than writing this article right now!).

Anyway, back to reloading revolvers.  Our point is simply this :  With a modern semi-auto and a high-capacity magazine, you can often work your way through an entire confrontation without needing to change magazines, and if you do need to change magazines, you have a reasonable chance of being able to do so before losing control of the situation.  No matter what sort of revolver you have, and what sort of encounter you face, you’re probably going to empty the revolver as part of your response to the threat.  If you’re lucky, the threat will be neutralized at the same time your gun is emptied.  But if you’re not lucky, you’re going to find yourself with an empty gun that might take too long to refill while still facing an active threat.

Do we need to explain this?  In the real world, you don’t shoot like at the range.  At the range, most people take careful aim, doing all the things they have learned or are practicing, check for sight alignment and sight picture, then carefully squeeze the trigger, firing a shot, after which they stop, think about how the shot went, and look at the target to see where it landed.

In a typical life or death encounter where you need to use deadly force to save yourself, you’re going to be pulling your gun in a rush and shooting it just as quickly as you can, without pausing to see what is happening between shots, until such time as the bad guy has clearly stopped threatening you with extreme harm.  It is very easy to fire all five or six rounds as part of a single decision to shoot.  While you’re trained to fire fewer rounds at a time; in the real world, even highly skilled police officers will fire very many more than five or six rounds at a single adversary.  Don’t expect to do any better, yourself.

At close range you have no choice but to fire rapidly, before the bad guy gets in physical contact with you – possibly to take your gun from you, possibly to stab you, or possibly just to use superior physical strength to take control of you.  In half a second, most people can travel 15 feet or so, and a person running towards you can move very much faster and more nimbly than you can moving backwards.  With most encounters taking place at this type of range or even closer, you have only half a second to solve the problem.

Anyway, back to reloading revolvers again.  Don’t be disheartened.  It is a million times better to have a five shot revolver than nothing.  You’ve tilted the odds enormously in your favor.  But it is even better still to have a 17 shot semi-auto (and with an 18th round already chambered!) at hand when trouble happens.

The Best Approach to Reloading Your Revolver

Okay, so how best to manage your revolver and keeping it fed?  We suggest you do what we do ourselves.  When carrying a revolver, we have both a Speed Strip and a speedloader with us.  That way we have the best of both worlds.  If we’ve emptied the cylinder, we grab the speedloader.  If we’re doing a tactical reload, we use the Speed Strip.

If we had to choose only one way of carrying spare ammo – well, that’s a hard decision to make.  Generally, we always have the Speed Strip and usually the speedloader too.

Aug 192011
 

Buckshot from a shotgun will penetrate about half a dozen sheets of drywall

There are two distinctive things about firearms and the people who profess to know lots about them.

The first thing is there’s a terrible amount of misinformation and misunderstanding out there – no doubt exacerbated by what we see in the movies (people thrown backwards a considerable distance after getting hit by a pistol bullet, and ‘six shooter’ revolvers that seem to never need reloading, for just two examples).

The second thing is that some of these people who are not necessarily fully correct about what they may tell you – often people who on the face of it should know better – are very adamant about their views, whether they are supported by facts or not.

The most dangerous misunderstandings of course are those which start from a factual point and then move far beyond that, making it difficult to tell where certain reality ends and uncertain ambiguity takes over.  From this perspective, let’s consider some often cited ‘facts’ about shotguns.

The shotgun is a weapon which is sometimes given more credit than it is due.  By way of specific example, here’s a newspaper report of a horrific sounding home invasion in an upmarket town in Connecticut.  The result of this is that local people are rushing to buy firearms, and it seems that most people are buying shotguns.

There are two reasons why these people are buying shotguns.  The first is that you can walk out of the gun store with a shotgun minutes after purchasing it, whereas it seems that buying a handgun in CT is a much more difficult and time-consuming experience, sometimes requiring you to wait patiently for as long as 3 months or more.

The second reason seems to be that the local gun store owner is recommending shotguns – he is semi-quoted in the article (and we confirmed with the reporter) as saying that shotguns are excellent for home defense because they are maneuverable and when you are shooting one, they are unlikely to shoot through walls.

Unfortunately, we can’t agree with either of these statements.  Let’s consider maneuverability first.

By law, a shotgun must have at least an 18″ barrel and an overall length of at least 26″.  A typical shotgun (eg a Mossberg 500 or a Remington 870) weighs about 6.5 lbs.  Compare that to a pistol which might have a barrel as short as 2″, an overall length of as little as 4″, and a weight of little more than half a pound.  A shotgun is 6+ times longer and 12+ times heavier.  Of course this makes it much harder to carry, and to sneak around corners and confined spaces in your house with, compared to a pistol.  At the typically very close ranges in which home encounters occur, you run an appreciable risk of having the bad guy(s) wrestle the shotgun out of your hands.

And how about shotgun rounds not going through walls?  We can’t agree with the store owner about that, either.  Here’s an excellent article (which we took our opening picture from) that shows how buckshot will penetrate through not just one or two but half a dozen sheets of dry wall.

On the other hand, if you were thinking you’d load your shotgun with birdshot rather than buckshot, while you solve the problem of shooting through walls, you create a new problem – something that isn’t powerful enough to shoot through a wall is probably not powerful enough to shoot sufficiently into an up close and aggressive attacker.  This is commented on at the bottom of the recommended article, with the easily understood conclusion that if you’re shooting at birds, then by all means use birdshot, but if you’re shooting at larger animals, you must use buckshot (or solid slugs).

Can we also comment on one other misperception about shotguns, even though it is not referred to in the newspaper report.  Some people think that a shotgun is a better home defense weapon because the spread of the shot is such as to compensate for any errors in your aim.

Alas, this is not true, either.  At typical home defense distances (probably ranging from somewhere under 10 ft at a minimum and up to 20 ft as a maximum) the spread of shot (assuming a ‘best case’ scenario with a short barrel that has no choke on it) is unlikely to be more than perhaps a 4″ diameter circle at the 20′ point, and correspondingly less at shorter distances.  That’s not quite the same as being able to simply close your eyes, point the shotgun in the general direction of where you think you heard/saw the bad guy, pull the trigger, and be assured of an effective hit, is it!

Don’t get us wrong.  A shotgun can be an excellent weapon for home defense, and perhaps its greatest strength is its intimidation factor.  There’s nothing more likely to take the fight out of an aggressor than the sound of a pump action shotgun being confidently racked.  The good thing about this is that a shotgun could save you from needing to use deadly force, because, let’s face it – if the bad guy turns around and runs away, the threat has been removed, and while he might ‘escape’ that should no longer be your concern.  You’ve successfully defended yourself, your loved ones, and your home, and best of all, have done so without needing to use deadly force.  That’s about as good as it gets, isn’t it.

So – shotguns are good, but they have no magical powers.  They won’t snake sinuously around corners for you, they will shoot through walls, and they won’t compensate for bad aiming.

For More Reading

Please also see our article ‘The Maximum Effective Range of a Shotgun‘ for more discussion on Shotgun facts and fallacies.